Bring wine, kosher salt, lemon juice, butter, red pepper flakes, sugar, bay leaf, and water to boil in a large pot. Add cauliflower, reduce heat and simmer (turning occasionally) until a knife easily inserts into center (15-20 minutes).
Using 2 slotted spoons or a mesh spider, transfer cauliflower to a rimmed baking sheet, draining well. Roast until browned (30-40 minutes, rotating halfway through).
Transfer cauliflower to a plate. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with sea salt and chopped garlic. Serve with whipped goat cheese.