Parisian Chef David Toutain: 'That's My Life,' Part 1

This is the first installment in a three-part interview with chef David Toutain. You can find the second installment here and the third installment here.

The next rising star at David Toutain in Paris is at the service every Friday night between 8:00 and 8:30. That is when the barely five-year-old Aiden Toutain puts on his apron and clambers onto his little step stool to provide his valuable assistance to his father chef David Toutain. It is also quite probable to walk into the David Toutain restaurant before lunch service to find petite Thai Toutain, wife of David Toutain (and in-house photographer, among other things) crouching on the floor to take a picture of her husband's latest creation. Assisted by a staff member directing smoke from the handheld smoker, oblivious to everything else until the smiling David Toutain walked out of the kitchen stating, "That's my life."

It is certainly an interesting time in his life as his restaurant that opened its doors in December of 2013 was awarded its first Michelin star this year, making it  one of the most exciting and buzzed about restaurants to emerge on the Paris dining scene in recent years. Toutain, who has trained with celebrated chefs like Alain Passard at L'Arpege, Pierre Gagnaire, Marc Veyrat at Maison DuBois, and Bernard Pacaud at L'Ambroisie, was not done learning after these stints and took off for Mugaritz, Andoni Aduriz's acclaimed kitchen in Spain, followed by (now closed) Corton in New York. 

Toutain's time at Mugaritz was certainly well spent, since as he honed his culinary skills he met Thai, his future wife, a chef from San Francisco, in the Mugaritz kitchen. The delightful young couple now works together with David in the kitchen and Thai taking care of guests in the elegant, warm, minimalist dining room designed by her with ecru walls, custom walnut wood tables and honeyed wood panels. Thai is assisted by yet another Mugaritz alum, sommelier Linda and a young team with an attentive ear contributing to the dynamic.

Prior to opening his own restaurant at the tail end of 2013 the young Normandian chef brought his modern concept to L'Agape Substance in Paris where he gained multitudes of followers before departing in 2012 on an Asian adventure. Toutain returned to Paris to open his restaurant in the seventh arrondissement where in record time his original cuisine has mesmerized diners and critics alike as he paints the canvass of his menus with improbable combinations of textures, flavors and tastes. The convivial chef is not averse to popping into the dining room to chat with guests at the, unusually for Paris, widely spaced tables, or bring a course to the table himself.

This year the Diners Club Academy at Worlds 50 Best restaurants voted it as one of six restaurants to watch for in Europe. His book "The Cuisine of David Toutain", not merely a compilation of recipes relates the story behind the evolution of this young chef and his inimitable style of fine cuisine using fresh, quality, and seasonal produce.  Think wild garlic sponge, trout with miso, smoked eel with black sesame, and of course the cauliflower and white chocolate dessert if it is on the tasting menu that day. The attention to detail at this unique restaurant is evident not only in the carefully orchestrated progression of the tasting menus but even in the choice of serve ware and table accessories. Thai Toutain narrated the story behind the spectacular ceramics handmade for them by a Belgian ceramic artist whose creations they fell in love with at chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre's restaurant outside Brussels. The affable couple set off en famille to order their own unique plates, striking an instant friendship with the artist and ended up spending the night at her house!

Seen often at food events like Madrid Fusion, Omnivore Paris, SS Gastronomika, or special collaborations with other international luminaries like the All-Star Chefs Classic in Los Angeles or an upcoming San Pellegrino event in Mexico City, David Toutain has arrived!

One morning as the kitchen was prepping for the lunch service we sat down with chef Toutain to talk about the exciting happenings in his life:

The Daily Meal: What was your initial reaction to the news about the Michelin star and does it put more pressure to perform?
Chef David Toutain: I got a phone call and my first reaction was total surprise. As always a week before they are announced there is conversation in the industry and conjecture about the upcoming announcement. Even though I didn't want to listen or be drawn into the talk it is hard to do that. I was very excited when I heard the news and before anything I was happy for my team because we are all working very hard and very focused on our work. The Michelin star does not put more pressure and it's just as we first opened — we cook, go about our routines, and don't think much about it. It's good motivation and a pat on the back saying good job and keep going.

With long hours in the restaurant, are you able to balance your professional and personal life?
I come in very early at 7:30 or 8:00 a.m. and finish at about 1:00 a.m., so it's definitely long hours. Luckily we live right above the restaurant so it's good for our son because I can enjoy breakfast with him and my wife and sometimes I get to drop him at school. He is just four and a half and in the afternoon we manage to spend time outdoors, eat a burger, or play, and then I also get to sneak upstairs to kiss him goodnight . I would say that I am lucky to have that balance. [pullquote:right]

You travel to a lot of events around the world like the All-Star Chefs Classic in Los Angeles earlier this year. Do you like to travel to such events?
For me the experience begins not when I arrive somewhere but at the airport when I begin my journey. It was great to arrive in Los Angeles meet a lot of friends and experience the food there. The event was very well-organized and we never speak much about these things but they are very important for those participating. I loved the idea of cooking in the middle of the stage surrounded by spectators and diners all around. It was a very nice way to connect with people in this stadium setting.

Due to the rampant use of social media in the restaurant industry, a picture of your dish is out moments after it reaches the diner. Does that impact your creative process?
It doesn't affect anything really. Here we have our own small world and we don't focus too much on what is going on outside. I like Twitter myself since it's quick and easy without too much blah blah blah. I like to tell my guests to focus on what we are doing. When we work on a new plate we put our thoughts and emotions into it and we like for them to have a conversation about it. The chef cooking in the kitchen is speaking to the guest with his dish and conveying his thoughts.

Do you appreciate feedback from your guests?
Yes as I feel it is very important. It's not just a product in front of them but much more, and it is a simultaneous experience between us and the guest.

This is the first installment in a three-part interview with chef David Toutain. You can find the second installment here and the third installment here.