No Spitting Allowed: Sweet Wines With Muscle

Sweet wines — whether natural or fortified — often have the reputation of being somewhat ephemeral and delicate, like lace window curtains billowing on a spring breeze. And some are. But many are almost burly, with earthy tones and assertive alcohols.

If that's your style of sassy sweeties, here are five to consider:

2010 Lucien Albrecht Alsace Gewurztraminer Réserve

Tropical floral aromas with spices and citrus. The flavors are not clearly defined, like those in a cocktail that have been muddled in the bottom of a shaker. Not as tangy and spicy as many gewurzes, it is moderately sweet with pepper around the edges but a bit short on length and acidity.

Verdict:Nice muscularity, but could use a little buffing and toning. ($20/750 ml)

2011 Les Petits Grains Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois

Don't be fooled by the frou-frou aromas of mangos and macaroons — this is a sturdy wine with complex flavors bolstered by 15 percent alcohol. OK, I can detect very ripe oranges, those mangoes and macaroons a bit, some grapefruit, lots of ripe figs, especially in the finish, along with some rough-cut tobacco and the textures of macerating grape skins.

Verdict:Not for the faint (or feint) of heart. ($14/375 ml)

2007 Pacific Rim Vin de Glacière "Selenium Vyd" Columbia Valley Riesling

Light in alcohol, high in residual sugar. A bit awkward, with concentrated juiciness, forest floor notes and lots of sorghum syrup flavors.

Verdict:Catch and release. ($16/375 ml)

2009 Château de Cosse Sauternes

Passably good, but a touch heavy, with typical honey and honeycomb sauternes flavors and textures. Some dark overtones and tangy edges.

Verdict:  More and more sauternes are being used as table — not dessert — wines, and I could see this one with a plate of cheeses and charcuterie. ($25/375 ml)

2009 Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

A red old-school wine with 16 percent alcohol, it has smoky aromas with echoes of fermented grape skins. It is very close in flavor tones to red vermouth, and I am tempted to add rye, bitters, and a marinated cherry to it. Lots of herbal notes.

Verdict:This wine should wear dark glasses — but I loved sipping it with dark, lightly bitter chocolate.  ($20/500 ml)