Intersect By Lexus: When A Marketing Experiment Becomes A Very Good Restaurant

Intersect by Lexus is one of the most interesting restaurants to open in New York in a while. As the name implies, it's not just a restaurant, but a "branded experience" — that is, the restaurant is fully underwritten by Lexus and a meal there is intended to evoke the same emotions that a ride in a Lexus might. So while a visit to the multi-floor space doesn't bombard you with Lexus ads, the brand is just present enough for you to feel that "luxury car" vibe.

In a release heralding its New York City launch, Intersect was described as "a new lifestyle hub [that] merges innovative programming, culinary creativity, and masterful design for an immersive cultural experience" — but never mind all the lingo. It's not exactly easy to explain it to someone who hasn't been there, but thankfully if you decide to visit the second-floor restaurant (or more realistically, if you can snag a reservation), you'll be rewarded. Sure, the space is sleek and modern, but the design and marketing concept take a back seat to the food, which we really enjoyed during a recent visit at the invitation of the restaurant.

So here's how the concept works: The restaurant is under the purview of Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, and is divided into a few unique spaces. The ground floor is an all-day café serving coffee, pastries, and the like; the second floor is home to the restaurant and a circular cocktail bar, and the third hosts art installations. But here's the kicker, and the most interesting aspect of the whole concept: Every four to six months, a new chef will come in and completely transform the menu.

If the current (first) chef is any indication, the chefs brought on board are going to be some heavy hitters. The current menu is the work of Gregory Marchand, who's one of the hottest chefs in Paris thanks to his Michelin-starred Frenchie (as well as a London offshoot). Having had the opportunity to visit Frenchie in Paris, we went into our meal with high hopes. Thankfully, Marchand knocks it out of the park.

After a couple expertly prepared cocktails (try the sweet-and-sour Intersect or the tea- and lemon-scented Pardon my Frenchie), we sampled a few appetizers: baby leeks, carrots, and burrata.

The baby leeks were cooked until melting and served atop a pile of tender barley, and topped with a super-cheesy Parmesan sabayon, crunchy puffed barley, and a smoked egg yolk. The dish is an absolute flavor bomb, loaded with umami and tied together by the brilliant use of barley.

The burrata and carrots were both perfect showcases for Marchand's skills, with incredibly creative interplays of flavors, textures, and temperatures (pear and vadouvan-spiced granola in the burrata's case, and farro, tarragon, and kumquat with the roasted carrots).

An entrée of expertly-cooked duck breast partnered with tender roasted sunchokes and salsify, crisp bok choi, creamy sunchoke puree, crunchy puffed rice, and sesame seeds was also an adventure in flavors and textures.

Filet mignon played nicely with squares of braised short rib, tiny potatoes, artichoke, demi-glace, olive-tamarind sauce, and a crunchy mix of rosemary and pine nuts.

This is some seriously inspired cooking, with many elements on each plate. The end result doesn't come across as overwrought, however; instead, these dishes are hearty and comforting, inviting us back in for one more bite. And on the wine end, there's a very well-curated collection of primarily French wines, with a handful of Californias and Oregons included for good measure.

The space, designed by Masamichi Katayama of Wonderwall, is slightly industrial but still welcoming, with coffee table books lining the walls and some Lexus-inspired touches evident but not obtrusive. An open kitchen lets diners see the action, and there's a bar alongside it if you want a front-row seat. Service, as can be expected at a Danny Meyer restaurant, is on-point, attentive, and just friendly enough.

Yes, Intersect is the product of a marketing brainstorm, and you never quite can shake the feeling that you're participating in a branding experiment. But at the end of the day, Lexus has invested a lot of money into this concept, and has brought on board the best in the business to design it, make sure it runs smoothly, and turn out some truly astonishing food. After a meal there, I didn't feel at all as if I'd just been advertised to; instead, the only thoughts in my head were that I'd just had a truly fabulous meal, and that I can't wait to find out who the next chef-in-residence will be.

The meal that was the subject of this review was provided at no cost to the author.