Respected San Antonio Chef Andrew Weissman Cooks French, South Texas-Style

San Antonians love chef Andrew Weissman as much for his past ventures, like the famed Le Rêve, shuttered in 2009, as for his present ones, including Il Sogno, The Luxury, Moshe's Golden Falafel, and now Signature, Inspired by Andrew Weissman.

This newest restaurant, tucked into an antiques-filled carriage house of sorts on the luxe grounds of the La Cantera Resort & Spa, signals his return to French-inspired cooking, though some of the menu at what he calls his "love letter" to San Antonio is firmly planted in his own South Texas history.

Signature's French offerings are front and center: Weissman's beloved seared foie gras, crispy pigs' feet with Le Puy lentils, and rich brandade de morue are all done well. The menu turns an unexpected corner with a few mismatched offerings — like gold leaf risotto and a Hong Kong-style sundae dotted with raspberry pâtes de fruits and topped with a big-Texas hairdo of pink cotton candy — as well as with brunch offerings like shakshuka and a breakfast burger — all of which no doubt play to the well-heeled crowd staying nearby at the resort.

At a recent meal, the charcuterie was a standout. Weissman piles his board with sliced meats and peppery pâtés, and includes expert embellishments: poached pears, a perfect celery root rémoulade, candied Texas pecans, a fat slab of honeycomb, bracing grainy mustard, juicy blueberry and cherry conserve, and a petite orange wedge, brined with its accompanying olives.

While Signature's offerings might seem disparate at times, the restaurant feels like Weissman's heartfelt effort to walk you through his storied career, with dishes and techniques he's perfected over the years, both focused and in flux.