Why Parq Vancouver Is The City's Hottest New Food Destination
After years of widespread anticipation, Parq Vancouver has finally opened its doors. As its president, Joe Brunini, explains, the half-billion-dollar entertainment precinct is not only "unique to Vancouver, but most importantly, uniquely Vancouver." The complex features casinos, a hotel, and above all, the impressive food and beverage options presented.
The Daily Meal was given an exclusive first look at Parq Vancouver's appetizing offerings, headed up by award-winning restaurateur Elizabeth Blau and her husband, executive chef Kim Canteenwalla. Canteenwalla grew up in Montreal before traveling internationally to hone his craft as a truly globally influenced chef. And now, in Vancouver, he's appreciative of what makes the city's dining scene so distinct: the diversity that brings in so many global flavors to the city and is embraced by the its chefs, restaurants, and diners. "The Asian population is very diverse," Canteenwalla explains. "One of the things that I really like about Vancouver is that it has that an entrepreneurial spirit. Young guys from these diverse backgrounds that grew up here in Vancouver have taken what they know about the local available produce, and put it into what was comforting for them when they were growing up." The end result is a wonderfully authentic, family-influenced, and culturally respectful exhibition of international cuisine within a 10-mile radius of the city center.
But make no mistake, despite Parq Vancouver's global interest on the international tourism market, Canteenwalla still maintains there's a true local focus. "First and foremost, we wanted to get to the Vancouver local market. It's the homes and families around here," says the chef. "All of that is key to making this successful, so we've gone after the local market — and when I say the local market, we're approachable, and we're sensible, and part of the community. It's very important to us to be a part of the community."
From grab-and-go lunch boxes to a tea and whisky lounge, the spectrum of culinary offerings is incredibly impressive. Canteenwalla and his team have gone to great lengths to ensure their portrayal of Vancouver's food scene is not only locally authentic and representative of the province's tastes, but that it's also able to compete with the ruthless demands of the international market. "We wanted to make our restaurants, bars, and lounges approachable to everyone by offering a wide range of different price points, environments, and cuisine styles throughout the properties. Each restaurant, bar, and lounge connects back to the Vancouver community in its own unique way."
Honey Salt
Honey Salt is the best example of Parq's portrayal of its true local roots. "At Honey Salt, we feature as many of BC's regionally produced ingredients as possible to showcase the bounty of the area," explains Canteenwalla. "It's meant to be approachable. It's also BC local. Farmers, foragers, fish — all those things. Having said that, you've got to have fun with it. You've got to have some passion with it."
It's a warm environment, filled with clarity and vitality, without any ego or attitude. I could see myself having brunch on a weekend, starting my day with one of the juices or nourishing egg dishes, in a relaxed sitting filled with natural light and luminous colors.
For lunch or dinner, even salads like "The Harvest" are presented as a visually striking and vibrant display of amazingly fresh local produce. It's a simple, and above all, successful start to the meal. "We've used vegetables from a number of different farmers," explains Canteenwalla. "We took a fresh, raw product, like a crudité, we took the pickling, we took roasting, and we took puréeing, and the juice of the vegetables. And we grew it all from there. It's about local product, and something that you'd be able to nibble on, and start on."
While there's an abundance of creative dishes that all do a brilliant job showcasing local, quality ingredients, one dish in particular stands out as seriously memorable: the seafood chowder. A wondrous medley of local seafood includes mussels from Salt Spring, fresh sidestripe prawns and sits alongside creamy potato, mouthwatering Two Rivers honey, and maple-smoked bacon so lusciously sweet and chewy that I could eat a plateful, if I'm being honest. All of this is centered by a perfectly cooked piece of flavorsome local black cod, before being drenched by a rich and wholesome chowder broth. It's not the most traditional chowder by any means, but by gosh, it's spectacular. The broth alone is one of the most delectable spoonfuls of creamy and lavish seafood flavors you could ever assemble — perfect for those chilly Vancouver nights. As Canteenwalla puts it, "It's just a friendly, inviting dish, and something you could put your arms around."
MRKT East
"MRKT East is where I would eat lunch — every day if I could," laughs Canteenwalla. And honestly, I'm with him. Inspired by his time working in Asia and his experiences with the Singaporean night markets, MRKT East is a tasty melting pot of Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Thai, Singaporean, and Vietnamese cuisines. I'm blown away by the labor-intensive setup — a plethora of staff operate various sizzling hot woks at flaming stoves, tend to succulent meats in authentic tandoori ovens, and expertly chop up barbecue duck. It's a frenzy of sights and sounds, and every inch of this open-dining experience encapsulates the energy and intensity of an iconic Asian street food scene.
Most importantly, I'm overwhelmed by the authenticity of the food produced at MRKT East. The chicken satay is tender and smokey. Perfectly marinated chicken thigh is grilled on skewers with the right amount of rustic char, and its simplicity is scrumptiously charming. The abundance of dumplings, dim sum, and steamed buns are cooked fresh, with that credible, initially firm bite into the dumpling skin that anyone who has lived in Asia will appreciate. The prawn har gow is wonderfully flavorsome, with its tender meat encased in a shimmering white skin that doesn't suffer from the all-too-common rubbery texture. Dining further west, the chicken tikka is superbly rich and spicy, with the right amount of heat. And, notably, all dishes are rather affordable. It's Parq's most approachable price point, and as Canteenwalla says, it's the type of food that the locals want to come in and eat. His favorite dish at MRKT East? "The nasi goreng," he says with a smile. "What I love about it are all the different elements. From the chips, to the satay, to the fried shallots, the egg — all of it."
BC Kitchen
BC Kitchen is all about classic Canadian comfort food. With its laid-back, sports bar-cum-lounge setting, the venue serves modern interpretations of traditional local eats. It's a rustic and welcoming environment and will no doubt be a hit during the sports seasons. Pizzas are hand stretched with dough made in house at Parq's own bakery, before being fired to order in the kitchen. The BC Back Country Pizza is topped with chorizo and pepperoni, both BC Kitchen's own recipes made with Two Rivers meat from North Vancouver, and then robust beef meatballs are added. It's a carnivore's delight, and a perfect accompaniment to one of BC Kitchen's numerous local beers. Its Cache Creek All Natural Beef Burger features 28-day-aged beef from a supplier literally hours north of the kitchen. The result is one of the most incredibly tender burgers that's so wonderfully rich and smokey that it's almost sweet in its succulent taste. It's the perfect composition of fat, moisture, and grittiness, a remarkably successful beef burger.
You can't really get more "bar food" than wings, and BC Kitchen caters to the biggest of wings fans. A hearty baker's dozen of different flavors are on offer, from the classic favorite buffalo to salt and vinegar, and even Korean barbecue. But the maple-bacon wings take top honors for me, as, apart from being Canada on a chicken wing, it's a devilishly sweet and salty bite with an even more satisfying, meatier hit from the bacon flavor.
But on the topic of classic Canadian flavors, opt for an obligatory order of poutine. BC Kitchen brings the Canadian classic to life with a slightly Italian twist. "My 13-year-old son's favorite dish is carbonara," Canteenwalla explains, as his son is particularly fond of pancetta. "I took those elements of a carbonara, and I brought that into a poutine." With a classic base of thick steakhouse cut fries, a gravy sauce is made by rendering pancetta fat, before adding chicken stock and cream. Cheddar cheese curds, crispy pancetta, and a soft poached egg transform this Canadian classic into a creamy, joyful dish. It's the ultimate drinking companion, and a wonderful blend of textures from the crunch of the fluffy fries to the salty pancetta, all married together by the flavorsome gravy and broken egg yolk. What's the best time to eat this poutine? "Breakfast, lunch, dinner," declares Canteenwalla. "Late night, after a few drinks, at 2, 3, or 4 in the morning before you crash in bed."
1886
A slightly dressier affair, 1886 defines itself as urban fine dining. Named for the year Chinatown came to life in Vancouver, 1886 brings an elevated and luxurious level of Chinese cuisine from four different regions — Canton, Sichuan, Hunan, and Shanghai — in a stylishly exclusive experience.
There's no denying 1886 is about dining opulence and flair, but, importantly, this doesn't come at the expense of quality. Experience the fascinating tea ceremony at your table, and then dine on the subtle and clean flavors of dishes such as the Chilean sea bass, which pairs the fish with crunchy bok choy, silky melt-in-your-mouth tofu, and robust shiitake mushrooms. Attention has been paid to maintaining credible and original Chinese flavors, while simultaneously celebrating local ingredients, and in particular, seafood. A live seafood tank proudly displays a majestic fisherman's haul as you enter the dining room, including Alaskan king crab, Dungeness crab, Nova Scotia lobster, grouper, and turbot.
The barbecue sampler parades the crispiest of pork belly, and dim sum options include a heavenly abalone and scallop mousse and squid ink dumplings topped with salmon caviar. The crispy prawn and cuttlefish dim sum is a lively treasure trove from the ocean, crunchy and rich, topped with Northern Divine caviar. Other incorporations of the prosperous seafood available include the Nova Scotia lobster clay pot rice, with its graciously rustic and warming tones, and sweet chunks of supple lobster.
The jewel in the crown of 1886, however, is found in its Peking duck. The commanding tableside presentation features Montreal duck, roasted and wrapped in house-made pancakes. The roasted duck itself is classic, from the cracking of the crispiest glazed skin, to the intensely rich and smoky meat, and isn't layered with an excess of fat. The pancake is gracefully thin, yet still manages to provide a gentle, chewy wheat pillow around what becomes a vivacious parcel of resounding flavors. It is a magnificent dish, and one of the finest Peking ducks I've tasted outside of Asia.
Final Note
It'd be irresponsible of me to conclude this editorial without including one essential recommendation. I'm about to make a significant statement that I've thought about with great deliberation and contemplation. And it's not a statement that I make lightly.
I tasted one of the greatest chocolate cakes anywhere in the world at Parq Vancouver.
Yes, I realize how momentous this serious claim is, but I stand by it. Canteenwalla has created the ultimate slice at Honey Salt with the Society, constructed with a gorgeously smooth and effortless chocolate cake that delivers the right balance of lush creaminess and cocoa richness, and layered with slabs of moist banana cake, and luxurious chocolate mousse. The entire cake is drenched in a generous dark chocolate glaze and served with a scoop of banana Mario's Gelato (a local Vancouver favorite).
It's a place of chocolate ecstasy that is nothing short of utter indulgence. And I would, without hesitation, return to Vancouver for this cake alone. My advice? Experience a slice immediately, as it's only a matter of time before it explodes all over social media.
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