Parisian Chef David Toutain: 'That's My Life,' Part 3

This is the third installment in a three-part interview with chef David Toutain. You can find the first installment here and the second installment here.

The Daily Meal: You worked with Pierre Gagnaire. What did you learn during your time with him?
Chef David Toutain: I learned respect, not to be afraid to do your own food, and when you create something to be proud of it. He is a genius and has been creating wonderful food for over thirty years and is just as strong as ever. Gagnaire is a great example and an inspiration for young chefs who think, "If he did it, I can do it and I just need to believe in myself." It is hard to be that way though and not everyone appreciates it. You can have people at adjoining tables eat the same dishes and yet their experience is entirely different. Working with him was one of the best experiences of my life and I grew a lot with him. He does not talk much about himself or his work and he does not have to because he is so special and unique. Did you know that he likes to paint? He is a true artist. Artists are special as they impart a different artistic touch to everything that they do.

So should cuisine evoke emotions and affect intellect?
I hope mine does because I try to create that way but I really want the guests to have a good time. Sometimes people comment that, "Wow you have used a lot of techniques!" but I don't want it to be like that. I don't need to explain how long or with what technique I cooked the fish, asparagus, etc. It should be great in taste.

Sometimes menus have such detailed descriptions. What is your opinion about that?
I was never like that with my menus. I like it to say eggs, corn, fish, or whatever ingredient and that is it. Most people just don't need that information and if they want more they will ask questions. We don't have to say that this corn came from this place, then we did this to it and mixed it with this, etc. We can speak for one hour about it but the guest just wants to enjoy the dish with good service.

Service can be very different at each of the fifteen tables here because some people are here for a business lunch while another table came all the way from Tokyo to eat here. You have people coming for different reasons and we have to respect that.

You have traveled and worked in different parts of the world. Is there a city or country that you are partial to?
Truthfully I don't have a particular place that I like more. I am so fortunate to have traveled and visited so many places and I am happy when I leave Paris and even happier when I come back. I was so excited to go to California in March, to Tokyo in August, or to London for a holiday. I am always excited to leave but after I few weeks ready to come home.

What about great meals?
I had amazing food in Japan and then other parts of Asia and China. It was interesting and different, and I love California, and I am also happy when I go to New York. I have friends there, the small hangouts from the days I lived there and some great friends. I have good friends everywhere, even in Copenhagen, as my life has taken me to so many places. My friends David Fischer, Rasmus Kofoed, and Nicolai of Kadeau in Copenhagen for example, and it's wonderful to see them, we eat together and hang out. It's the same in other places so I can't pick a favorite place.

Is this a new generation of chefs because such sharing of ideas and information did not happen in previous generations?
We all share and exchange ideas freely. If I go somewhere and love something I eat there I will ask for the contact of the purveyor, and the same goes for those who ask me. The knowledge of purveyors or connections came to me during the course of my work and some of them like my chicken purveyor are very small producers and it's very hard for them to be profitable, so if I can only use ten chickens and if she has more than I will help out by asking another restaurant, say Le Meurice, if they can use the rest. One day I had a problem sourcing fish, then I just asked my friends who shared their purveyor information with me. It is how we grow, otherwise in a few years we will not be here anymore. If I have an egg purveyor and I only use their medium sized eggs, I speak to a friend and ask if they can use the large and small eggs. It's as simple as that.

Are the younger chefs opting for casual restaurants to cut down on their costs?
Yes of course, but not because they are saving money but actually so they can spend more on acquiring the best products to work with or their tableware or glassware. There are a lot of things in the background of running a restaurant. That time and money saved can be used for other things depending on the concept of the restaurant.

There was a time when only the Michelin guide was important, and now we have the World's 50 Best lists and others as well. Any thoughts on these lists?
I think they are good for the business and recognize good restaurants, and it's interesting to see the impact of these when I travel. For me the Michelin is still important because of the story and history behind it and the respect for the chef. It is a great distinction for a chef and maybe more precise than being one of the 50 Best in the world. Michelin is very personal, too, and going to a restaurant with Michelin stars even if it is not on the 50 Best is still a special experience. I do appreciate the recognition by the 50 Best and work with them. [pullquote:right]

Essentially different guides and lists work for different people and what they looking for. For me when I am in a new city, I tend to ask my friends for recommendations. I went to L.A. and didn't refer to any guide but just asked Ludo Lefebvre to suggest restaurants. In Tokyo I left it to my friend Gillaume from Troisgros to make suggestions. When friends come here to Paris I do the same when they ask me.

Where would you send me in Paris?
I would suggest many from a small bistro Pottoka just five blocks away [from me], to Cobéa, Akrame, Septime, L'Arpege, and Pierre Gagnaire of course! Food is like family, and the world is very small.

Would you consider going international or opening multiple restaurants?
It was very hard for me to open one [laughs] so I can't think of more right now. I don't think I am going to have that many proposals. All my life I have seen that this business is unpredictable. It's like a building and the most important part of building is the foundation. So if you have a good foundation you can build to great heights on that and it can be one floor or thirty. As long as you have built a strong base you can add on top. You can only build as many floors as your base will hold and for now I am just building that base and that foundation, and I believe you never know what's coming next in life so I am not thinking that far ahead. It takes that time to organize and build and grow.

This is the third installment in a three-part interview with chef David Toutain. You can find the first installment here and the second installment here