Off Brooklyn's M Train, A Cheeseburger Worth The Ride

If you're like most carnivorous Americans, you've probably eaten a couple burgers in your lifetime, and most likely have a short list (at least) of a few favorites that you've found in restaurants in your hometown or city. I have been known to compile such a list or two in my day as well, so my memories of most of the hundreds of cheeseburgers I've enjoyed have blended together in a meaty, juicy haze, with few standing out from the herd.

 

The Bad B cheeseburger at Buskwick, Brooklyn's Molly's Milk Truck is one very glorious exception.

 

To assemble this burger, two grass-fed beef patties are covered with beer cheese sauce, topped with shredded lettuce and tomatoes, and sandwiched between two halves of a black sesame seed-topped milk bun. The high-quality patties, spiced like chef Hoda Mahmoodzadegan's mother does them at home, are packed with flavor and made all the more savory by the beer cheese sauce. The bun does a good job of holding up under all the oozing and dripping that happens with each bite. This is a burger that will leave your hands and face dripping, but it's just shy of messy thanks to the crisp chiffonade of lettuce and that bun that just won't quit.

 

You can gild the lily by adding crispy beef bacon, or choose other add-ons like a poached or soft boiled egg, avocado, or myriad of sauces, but you're strongly encouraged to try your first naked, so to speak.

 

So the next time you just have to have a cheeseburger, hop on the M (or L, or B38, or saunter over if you live in Bushwick/Bed-Stuy/Ridgewood) to Molly's, and get your fix of one you're sure to remember.