Kitchen Conversations With Norman Van Aken: Ferdinand Metz

Norman Van Aken, a member of The Daily Meal Council, is a Florida-based chef–restaurateur (Norman's at the Ritz-Carlton in Orlando), cooking teacher, and author. His most recent book is a memoir, No Experience Necessary: The Culinary Odyssey of Chef Norman Van Aken. This is the one in a regular series of Kitchen Conversations — informal but revealing interchanges with key culinary figures — that Van Aken will be contributing to The Daily Meal. He also writes a regular series of Kitchen Meditations for us. You can find all of Norman's contributions on his Daily Meal page.

Ferdinand Metz has had — and continues to have — an illustrious career in the culinary world. For starters, he earned the 1999 Lifetime Achievement Award for the James Beard Foundation. Moreover, he is one of only 67 Certified Master Chefs. He has enjoyed 21 years as the President of the renowned Culinary Institute of America. In addition, chef Metz has been the President of the American Culinary Federation, President of the World Association of Chefs' Societies, and President of the World Association of Chefs, a global organization of over eight million culinarians representing 82 countries.

As member, captain, and manager of the U.S. Culinary Olympic teams 1968 — 1988, chef Metz won over thirty gold medals in international competitions. As if all this wasn't impressive enough, he is one of only three recipients in the United States to be awarded the Medal of the French Republic and Maître D' Honneur by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. 

Amongst his many exceptional talents, he also has experience in competition judging, food industry consulting, and leadership.

Norman Van Aken: What is the very first thing you remember eating and enjoying? Where were you?
Chef Ferdinand Metz: I was about 12 years old when we went skiing in the alps, which are only 45 minutes from our home, and following that we had a simple snack of fried egg on a slice of farmer's rye bread. Perhaps it was the fact that I was hungry, but more likely it was because the freshly baked bread with its caraway scented flavor, the chewy center, and the flavorful crust. That combined with the variation of textures of the simply butter-fried egg, slightly brown at the edges, its softer whites, and finally the liquid gold of the yolk. This simple combination, its comfort food feeling, and the surrounding circumstances made this truly a meal, whose taste memories I cherish and remember to this day. Perhaps this is another proof that "less is more."

Are you the first 'chef' in your Family?
No, not at all. My father was a master charcutier and a master chef and my brother is a master chef and pastry chef, as I am. My other brother is a pastry chef and my sister is a hotel/restaurant manager — so you can see — it is all in the family.

When did you start cooking?
Basically at the age of 11. Since my family owned a small hotel, butcher shop, and restaurant, we were always around food. At a very young age I would "work" in the butcher shop and got to know the ins and outs, from start to the finish. I would accompany my grandfather and drive with him to the farmers to pick out a cattle or pigs. After he made his selection and reached a bargain with the farmer, we would load the animal(s) onto the trailer, drove it to our local slaughter house, killed the animal, and brought the sides to our shop for fabrication, which included the making of sausages, smoked meats, prime, and secondary cuts, specialty items, like tripe, etc. Later on I would learn how to cook the various cuts in our restaurant kitchen.

When did you realize that it was 'serious' to you?
Cooking was always serious to me, because in the prevailing culture we had a lot of respect for food and absolutely nothing was wasted. My carrier choice was actually made by my parents, (it was tradition then and quite acceptable), who proclaimed on my 15th birthday that they were fortunate to land an apprentice ship for me as a beginning pastry cook in one of Munich's foremost cafés and pastry shop, where my brother Reinhold already started the third year of his apprenticeship. Since my father did not receive special training in baking and pastry, he made sure that my brother and I would get it, followed by another apprenticeship in cooking. This way he covered all the bases.

Where were you cooking when that moment took place?
This news was broken to me at our restaurant on my 15th birthday and came along with a gift of several knives. Initially is was a shock to me, but soon thereafter I realized that my parents knew better than I —  a decision I have not regretted to this day.

What was the first dish you made you felt proud of?
I exhibited, along with my father and brother, in a food show in Nuernberg, and at the age of 16 I exhibited several pastry items. It was there that I earned a gold medal for my work. As far as cooking was concerned, it was my final examination for graduating from the cooks apprenticeship program where I had to prepare a stuffed halibut with all the required garnishes. I finished the practical and theoretical portions with perfect scores at the trade school in Munich, which was then culminated by also receiving the distinction as the best apprentice in the State of Bavaria.

Do you feel this kind of life caused you to sacrifice having a 'normal life'?
Perhaps as far as the social aspects are concerned, but that shortcoming has been more than offset by the many rewards, satisfaction, and advancements our profession offers to those who are passionate and serious.

Did you ever come close to quitting the business and finding something 'more sane'?
Never once. In many ways it is the hectic environment, which I find energizing and fulfilling. With that in mind I always wanted to do better, even at times when a party or meal turned out really well. Even to this day, whenever I cook I cannot fool around while cooking; cooking has always been a serious and focused preoccupation on my part. I always found time for fun and laughter, but only after the last customer has been served. This has clearly been one of my shortcomings.

What was your arc in terms of the first kinds of cookery you loved and how it morphed over your career?
Success breeds confidence, which in turn fuels the energy that makes us strive for higher and higher goals. I always loved the basic comfort foods of my ethnic background, which over the years made me realize that in any kind of cooking, "more is less." We all tend to develop our own food philosophy, which helps us navigate through this silly notion of the "fruit or vegetable of the month," and the unsustainable trends, promoted by a sensation seeking media and gobbled up by inexperienced chefs, propelled into the lime light, only to be discarded shortly thereafter. This all tells us that there is really no substitute for experience, a good dose of common sense, and sound firsthand knowledge.

Who is the most important American born cookbook author of the past 50 years in your estimation?
When Jim Beard and Julia Child visited us at the CIA in the early '80, we — myself included — did not realize at the time how important their influence actually was. Arguable they, along with Waverly Root, educated the average American, food enthusiast, and professional alike on the importance and pleasures of preparing and serving wonderful meals. Together, they reached people in the metropolitan cities and the most outlying and inconspicuous areas of the country, and as such brought people to the table, sharing food, and drinks in newly found friendship and enjoyment.

Who is the most important chef of the past 100 years? Why?
Arguably, it has to be Paul Bocuse, whom I got to know well as he stayed in my house many times. During that period I began to really appreciate his passion in and leadership for the culinary profession. Paul is not only a great restaurateur, entrepreneur and chef, having received 3 Michelin stars for over 20 years running, but he is, without doubt the greatest ambassador for our craft.

Who is the most 'mischievous' chef you have ever known?
I guess that it would be a toss-up between Georges Perrier and Jean Banchet. Whenever they could, they would pull a prank on each other, but it was Paul Bocuse to really kept them in line. (They both apprenticed under Paul).

If you could go out for drinks and dinner with a 'food person' (can be living or from the past in this hypothetical question!) who would it be and why?
Craig Claiborne would be my choice. Craig, in his older days was somewhat critical – yet constructive, entertaining and even funny with some of his comments. His insights from the perspective of the customer gave many chefs, including Pierre Franey at Le Pavillon the benefit of better understanding the needs and wants of the dining public.

Your father was a certified master chef and master charcutier. Describe what a 'charcutier' did during that time.
He made wonderful sausages, such as a spreadable Liverwurst, a Weisswurst (the most revered Munich specialty), Leberkaes (a Bavarian style meat loaf), all types of Pates, Galantines, Stuffed Breast of Veal, a delicious sausage made with pancreas, etc. He also made great hot dishes like tripe boudins, blood sausages, zamboni, and a special sausage utilizing a pig's stomach as a container. Unfortunately his craft and knowledge will not survive, although there has been a recent resurgence in the art of charcuterie.

You apprenticed in Munich. What was the awareness of things like The Beatles or President Kennedy or America like to you and your brother Reinhold during that time?
Actually, the Beatles were becoming very famous in 1960 Germany and America was looked up to. Anything American, may it be clothing and/or music of the '50s and '60s was extremely popular. We also made many friends with American soldiers, who right after the war occupied our hotel for 5 years and made it their headquarters for the region. I personally experiencesd the tragedy with President Kennedy while I was cooking at Le Pavillon, and although I had only been for one year in the country, I shared the deep pain and anger with many Americans.

What food or ingredient do you adore?
I love the simple, but freshest ingredients such as parsnips, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, and eggplants, as well as, the aroma and flavor of fresh herbs including marjoram, thyme, lemon basil, mint, and rosemary. The availability of an almost year round harvest was one of the main reasons for our move to California. Today we maintain our small herb garden, a grove of avocados, over 220 olive trees, and a variety of fruit trees, such as dates, guavas, peaches, virtually all citrus varieties, including Meyer Lemons, and of course figs.

On the meat side I like the secondary cuts like shank meats, which take more skill, patience, and knowledge to prepare. Based on my background I also like all the organ meats, such as liver, kidney, brains, sweet breads, tripe, etc. In Bavaria, we make a specialty called Sour Lung, served with bread dumplings and red cabbage. Unfortunately many of these organ meats are no longer available in America as they find their way into the pet food industry.

Regarding seafood preferences, I have to go back to my days at Le Pavillon, where the Quenelles de Brochet served with a sauce cardinal and the whole Stripped Bass baked carefully in the oven and served with a beurre blanc made from its cooking liquid. Equally to that were the freshly caught and sautéed rainbow trout, my father often brought home.

What is your favorite "Food/Wine/Drinks Holiday"?
Without any doubt it is Thanksgiving and that's for many reasons. It is one of the most historic and celebrated holidays in America. It brings families together at the dinner table. One shares the love for food and drink, celebrates the harvest, and camaraderie and hopefully always gives thanks for living in this country and appreciating the food sources it provides. In many ways, Thanksgiving is what the restaurant and hospitality field is, or should be all about.

What are your thoughts and opinions on the 'TV reality cooking shows'? Are they good or not so good for the Industry you have spent your life devoted to?
Although I hardly ever get to watch these shows I do believe at the end they create excitement and a sense of stardom, which our industry has never experienced before. Likewise it heightened the consumers' expectations, and as such demanded cooks, chefs and restaurateurs to always over-deliver. On the negative side, these shows give the young students in Culinary Schools the impression that appearing on these shows is what their career is all about. They tend to forget that first you should become a good cook, and later on a chef, and then think about other opportunities. On the other hand, many of the participants are way too young to be called a cook, let alone chef, and many could not cook their way out of a kitchen.

What food, drink, or ingredient will never enter your body again?
Probably badly prepared food, as well as, a steady diet of molecular cuisine. Don't get me wrong, molecular cuisine has created much interest on behalf of the industry and the dining public. It also jump started one's curiosity and interest about the functional/chemical aspects of ingredients interacting and possibly altering their original structure, flavor, and texture. At the end of the day, however, I do not think that a restaurant based solely on molecular cuisine can survive in the long run.

Where in the world would you like to dine now and why?
I would like to re-visit several restaurants to see what they have done since I visited them in the '80s and '90s.

3 Michelin starred Tantris in Munich-inspired by the creations of its first chef Witzigman.

Marc Veyrat's restaurant in the French's Savoie region and situated on the shores of Lac Annecy near Geneva — it brings together great cuisine and a wonderful setting.

Raymond Blanc's Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons near Oxford. One of the first Michelin starred restaurants/Auberge in the UK, which utilized produce from its own gardens.

Repeating a 1995 dining tour with Paul Bocuse, which started at his restaurant in Lyon and finished with several courses at the Troisgros brothers. The food, the wines, and the stories made this a magical experience.

At Mere Brazier for the most authentic Lyonnaise specialties. Rustic cuisine with great basic flavors made this restaurant a destination.

For many of my previous "Kitchen Conversations" I have asked this question, "Do you feel culinary schools are preparing young folks for a life as a chef?" Asking YOU that question is almost absurd. But... I think it would be fascinating to hear about the man who has been the 'living, breathing embodiment of a "Harvard" of them' to answer this for us. 
A good question indeed! As we all know, cooking is a life-long learning experience and the notion that culinary schools can "turn out" professional chefs is out-right unrealistic. Schools, however do prepare students for a career in the culinary field, but at best they are cooks upon graduation, some more or less motivated and skilled. Generally speaking.

The problem that has risen is mostly due to the unrealistic expectation of the industry along with the hype on TV and in the media. Having said this, we all are aware that some truly exceptional students have entered the industry and have found amazing successes years later. As an example, a writer from the NY times did some time ago a piece of the young and upcoming chefs, 80 percent of whom graduated from the CIA. These included Larry Forgione, David Burke, Waldy Malouf, Melissa Kelly, Michael Chiarello, Jasper White, Susan Feniger, Todd English (our soccer goalie at the CIA), and many others.

What part of your body has taken the biggest beating over the years in the kitchens?  
Other than my brain, it would have to be my legs. Kidding aside, I always felt a strong commitment whenever I cook for my family, friends or customers, to the degree that my wife always tells me to lighten up. Cooking to me is a serious thing and I could never mock it up, like many do on TV. In many ways, every plate I put out reflects my standards and I am never inclined to compromise that. For example, we have some friends over for Super Bowl Sunday and although I plan a simple menu, the chili I make has to be the best ever and needs to be created, cooked, seasoned, and served very well and appropriate for the occasion.

What famous guests have you enjoyed cooking for the most? 
I was fortunate having been able to host and interview unique and outstanding personalities at the Culinary Institute of America. In addition to the formal ceremonies and dinners surrounding the event, I often took the opportunity to invite my guests into my home kitchen to cook with me. Such was the case with Paul Bocuse, James Beard, Julia Child, Roger Verge, Christian Delouvrier, Heinz Winkler, Otto Koch, Gaston Le Notre,  Witzigman, and Anton Mosiman, etc.

I also had the pleasure to cook for Presidents Bill Clinton and Yeltsin during their summit in Hyde park, as well as for Queen Elizabeth during the bicentennial celebration, but quite frankly, cooking with other chefs has always been most gratifying.

Favorite 'Food Movie' of all time?
Who is killing the great Chefs of Europe? Have you seen it? It focuses on the stereotypical image of chefs and on many of the idiosyncrasies that the common perception accords to chefs, which has long been altered — and for the better.

You've created a meal for three of your personally chosen guests from all of history. What items did you cook? Whom are your three guests? 
I would invite:

Vatel and cook the same fish over which he committed suicide when it arrived late for an important banquet.

Napoleon and his chef, who at Waterloo created the chicken Marengo from ingredients he found in a war-torn region and ask him to re-create that dish.

Brillat Savarin to enlighten the table with his philosophies on food.

My father, also a master chef and master charcutier, whose inspiration and encouragement gave confidence to my brother and I when we were young cooks.

I also would invite you to lend the perspective of a leading American chef to the table discussion.

If you had not made it as a chef and Culinary Educator... and money were not an issue... what profession would you choose?
I would have chosen the medical profession, but music has always been part of me and my time to relax. Early on in Germany I played saxophone and clarinet with an all chefs' band, which was a lot of fun, but only as a hobby — not a profession.

Would you want your child (or a niece or nephew) to become a chef? 
Not really. I did not want to pressure them into becoming a chef. My children all had enough exposure to the culinary arts to observe for themselves, and not one of them have chosen it as their profession. I suppose they saw the long and late hours and hard work that I put in and decided against the chefs' profession.

If you wrote a book on 'advice for aspiring chefs' (etc.) what would you choose for its title? 
"Ingredients of a Good Cook" (Subtitle — Passion, dedication, and an insatiable appetite to learn every day.)

I definitely would illustrate the positives and negatives of our profession, with the hopes that they truly understand what they are in for. Clearly, I would stress the good things, the opportunities, and the immense satisfaction that I get from cooking every day.

For more Kitchen Conversations with Norman Van Aken, click here.