You Should Be Drinking Gewürztraminer From Alsace

Not long ago I read that some consider Alsace an unfashionable wine region. Could this be true? It is true that Gewürztraminer is often considered an unfashionable wine. Is it possible a misunderstood grape finds its home in an unfashionable wine region to create an elegant, intense, and high quality wine? If the premise is true, it appears this is exactly what has happened.

Alsace is located on the eastern border of France and Germany. Since WWII it has been part of France, but that has not always been the case. "The disputed provinces, on France's eastern border with Germany, became French territory in the late seventeenth century. Between 1870 and 1945, however, they changed hands four times, passing from France to Germany, to France, to Germany and back to France." Following WWI and revitalized after WWII, Alsace viticulturist started a "quality first" policy moving back to producing indigenous, high quality grapes. These efforts were officially recognized in 1962 by the AOC Alsace, followed by AOC Alsace Grand Cru in 1975, and AOC Crémant d'Alsace in 1976. Today Alsace is recognized globally as one of the finest white wine producing regions in the world.

Alsace is a unique wine region. It lies on almost the same latitude as Champagne but has an entirely different climate. Because of the Vosges Mountains to the west, Alsace is sheltered from oceanic influences, resulting in it being one of the lowest rainfall regions in all of France. Its semi-continental climate offers a long growing season with sunny, hot, dry days; furthermore, its location is at an altitude of 200 to 400 meters, allowing the vineyards to take full advantage of the sun. These factors combine to create wines that are both elegant and very aromatic.

Another unique feature of Alsace is the 15,000 hectares of vineyards grow in 13 distinct soil types. The soil mosaic includes granite, limestone, gneiss, schist, sandstone, volcanic, and clay to name a few. These soils vary from vineyard to vineyard and even vary within a vineyard, creating wines with distinct flavors and aromas. There are seven main grape varieties growing in these soils: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner and Riesling.

Gewürztraminer is a pink grape that produces a full-bodied, well-structured white wine with intense aromatic notes of lychee, passion fruit, pineapple, mango, rose, orange rind, honey, ginger, cloves, and white pepper. It ranges from dry to sweet depending on how it is produced and is typically lower in acidity and higher in alcohol. Because it has a tendency to be cloying, it must be harvested at the ideal ripeness to retain freshness and capture as much acidity as possible.

Although it originates from Germany, Gewürztraminer is right at home in Alsace. Like Riesling, Gewürz expresses its terroir very well. The variety of soils in Alsace provide an ideal environment for a wide variety of expressions of Gewürz. Furthermore, due to the accessibility and affordability of these wines, Alsace offers the perfect entry into the world of Gewürztraminer. As you move up the Alsace ladder to the Grand Crus, the Gewürz display more depth with richer notes. These wines have wonderful age-ability. Here are four excellent entry-level wines to get your Gewürz exploration started.

2012 Domaine Barmes-Buecher Gewürztraminer Tradition Alsace ($25): pronounced aromas of lychee, pineapple, mango, lemon zest, orange blossom, gingerbread leap from the glass; medium acidity, full-body, layers of texture and flavors wrap the palate, long glistening finish.

2014 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Reserve Personnelle Alsace ($25): pronounced exotic aromas of lychee, pineapple, dried rose, Chinese 5 spice, cinnamon, and white pepper; off dry with balanced acidity, backbone of minerality on the palate, elegant yet highly approachable, full-body, mouth-coating, easily enjoyable.

2014 Domaine Saint-Remy Gewürztraminer Rosenberg Alsace ($20): medium+ inviting aromas of caramelized pineapple, mango, lemon juice, ripe peach, rose petals, ginger, cinnamon, nuts, pepper; full-bodied, lush and elegant, slightly off-dry, medium acidity, long pleasant finish.

2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace ($20): medium+ dazzling aromas of orange blossom, ripe nectarine, melon, mango, lychee, dried ginger, Chinese 5 spice; rich yet focused, full-body, mineral backbone, medium acidity, elegant, a wonderful introduction to Alsace Gewurztraminer.

Gewürztraminer is an incredibly food friendly wine. When dry it pairs well with charcuterie, roasted chicken, crab cakes, lobster roll, pasta, and pork. As it moves up the sweetness scale it pairs well with spicier cuisines such as sushi, Thai, curries, and Ethiopian dishes. One thing for sure, if you are drinking a Gewürz from Alsace, the sweetness level will always be balanced with acidity so the wine will never leave your mouth feeling sticky; rather, perfectly refreshed.