Brunellos take Flight In Montalcino
First helicopter tasting tour wows wine lovers in Tuscany
By Kristen Oliveri
There's no place in the world like Tuscany. The rolling hills, the incredible vineyards, the warm and kind-hearted people. I've never had a Tuscan experience that didn't leave me wishing that I could secretly move to one of the planet's most gorgeous places and spend my days producing wine or, perhaps, simply consuming it.
On my most recent visit to Montalcino—or as most wine lovers have come to know it, the land of the Brunellos—I spent time with Sebastian Nasello. This young, passionate winemaker heads up the efforts of Podere Le Ripi, a 12-hectre biodynamic and organic vineyard that produces small batch, high quality wines, including stellar Brunello, one of only five such vineyards in the region.
Nasello was born to be a winemaker. From his early days, he essentially grew up in the wine-making business, beginning his fledgling career as a trade and major focus while still in school. That early education, led him to receive his degree in oenology/wine-making at Pisa University as a way of formalizing his study.
He took over the reins at Podere Le Ripi in 2012, alongside owner Francesco Illy. In only four short years, Nasello received the Premio Gambelli 2016 best winemaker under 35 award. This undoubtedly, to Nasello, was a testament to their dry farming techniques, known as bonsai, and the quintessential location to grow these particular grapes.
He believes strongly in the bonsai technique and grape growing method that was instituted by founder Illy in 2005. The concept is simple: they plant the vines in a dense manner where they need to be, forcing them to grow deep routes, that in turn make them stronger and resistant to disease.
The wines in Montalcino region are a 100% Sangiovese. In other regions, winemakers blend Sangiovese with other grapes to coax the process along. But for the diehard purists like Nasello, there is nothing better than the old world wine with the typical regional grape that is aged to perfection, complete with a powerful taste. "Sangiovese is sensitive, with different ripening and expressions," he explained.
Once more, there are no manipulation techniques used or chemicals sprayed throughout his process. What's needed is the physical location of the property and the biodynamic and organic approach to growing grapes. This combination produces the wine that is a true reflection of the unique soil that is found in Montalcino.
True teamwork, believes Nasello, is what it takes to produce a high quality product. "There are so many people behind each bottle," he explained. "In this region, there is never a famous winemaker; we don't need to bring in consultants. It doesn't depend on one man's pair of hands. What it's really about is being patient with this wine. There is no shortcut to producing a traditional Brunello."
To accompany such delicate grapes, the team decided to build a wine production and tasting building, only using the ancient arts, crafted from the relationship between spatial dimensions, strictly using what is known as the Golden Ratio where the builders use natural clay bricks and mortar made of lime to construct it.
Given his deep passion for Brunello and the region it hails from, the vineyard has partnered with local wineries and hospitality groups to offer their clients a unique wine experience coined Fly Brunello. The highly curated experience is a full day in the Orcia Valley all seen by helicopter. Guests experience flying over old villages and stunning vineyard vistas and have the opportunity to stop at Podere Le Ripi along with Castiglion del Bosco Winery.
After their tastings, they are flown to a Michelin starred restaurant Silene for a Tuscan lunch led by the chef Roberto Rossi who showcases locally grown, traditional ingredients in his dishes. The overall experience will certainly teach any wine lover to appreciate this magnificent region of Montalcino.