Culture

Chef Alex Stupak Ponders Society's Shortcomings On Twitter

Nell Alk|

This past Saturday, pastry chef turned Mexican cuisine connoisseur and notoriously indelicate tweeter Alex Stupak took to Twitter, blasting vegan donuts.

The last time The Daily Meal gave a nod to Stupak's social media style, reading the account I was admittedly impressed by his efficient — and damning — use of 130 characters, calling attention to a former line cook who resigned by sneaking out during a shift. This more recent tweet, however, which commanded roughly half the character count, left me a tad taken aback, especially considering the anti-vegan rant that ensued, as well as society's ever-evolving attitude towards plant-based diets.

Named one of Food & Wine Magazine's top 25 "Best New Chefs" in 2013, the 33-year-old owner of two Empellón locations in New York City (soon to be three) is recognized and admired for his modernist approach to food. A contemporary perspective should be celebrated, nuanced dishes savored and saluted, which is why it might come as a surprise to some that Stupak would air the following:

Stupak's first few tweets, those aimed at no one named in particular, drew ample attention, attracting acrimony and no shortage of figurative high fives from followers. But, was Stupak just jesting? Is this an example of how you can't "read tone" on Twitter, the same way we all sometimes misinterpret the tones of text messages? Whatever his actual manner, flippant or earnest, Stupak came across as both mean-spirited and out of touch with the current culinary climate. (Didn't his colleague and advocate Grant Achatz fairly recently introduce a vegan menu at his Chicago restaurant Next?) Whether Stupak is either or both of these things is up for debate. His tweets aren't.

Indeed, after launching his first tweet, the restaurateur singled out former fan Jay Astafa, a 21-year-old plant-based chef merely aiming to dispel the myth Stupak seemed seduced by and bent on perpetuating.

Tweeted Astafa:

Stupak proceeded to broadcast he'd be blocking Astafa, dismissing him as "that one dude." (Stupak has since followed and unfollowed Astafa.)

Astafa's right. Vegan doughnuts are having a moment. Or, rather, vegan doughnuts have been enjoying many moments. Not that this should be the focus of Stupak's public faux pas, but it's worth noting the Brooklyn-based bakery Astafa references has been lauded all over town, from The New York Daily News to Refinery 29, Gothamist to The Village Voice, Thrillist to...The Daily Meal, though the editor representing the latter didn't adore them as much as, well, everyone else (but hey, everyone has an off day).

In all fairness, I'm pretty sure Stupak's tweet wasn't directed at Dun-Well anyway (a photo of the sign that set him off would have helped). But, that isn't the point.

The point is, like it or not, demand for plant-based options is growing, whether prompted by yet another health-related research study or still more undercover investigations, an allergy scare or concern for planet earth. Whatever the motive may be, the vegan elevator is steadily ascending and, while many still resist it, savvy chefs would do well by themselves (even selfishly) to hop aboard and adapt some classics or, heck, go out on a limb and innovate.

Confession: I joined the conversation. After reading Astafa's contributions and Stupak's retaliatory tweets, I was compelled to chime in. That's a voracious vegan for you, adding fuel (and facts) to the fire. The takeaway from my involvement, however, has nothing to do with doughnuts and everything to do with paying homage to non-vegan (I repeat, non-vegan) chefs and restaurants catering to animal-free eaters (or anyone, really, who appreciates plants).

I posited:

Here I referenced an article I'd written in 2012 about the InterContinental Hotel's Ça Va Brasserie by Todd English, where then head chef Matthew Corbett developed an impressive spread. I tacitly recalled, whilst staring—and stewing—at my iPhone screen, beautiful meals made for me at top-notch restaurants Rouge Tomate and Dovetail, as well as New York eateries offering a variety of vegan menu items. On purpose. (Think Dirt Candy, Palà, Wild, John's of 12th Street and even Astafa's family's restaurant on Long Island, 3 Brothers Pizza Café, among myriad more.)

Stupak retorted:

Hmm, let's see. First, Stupak, that's sweet, but can I get your guacamole sans sea urchin, please and thank you? Second, countless respected chefs are facing the vegan frontier, embracing its challenges (and likewise rewards) and accommodating different palate preferences, to much success. Meanwhile, Stupak claims his two establishments supply similar treatment, and yet he's blatantly bashing would-be customers (i.e., vegans), cementing his status as a narrow and negative chef, unwilling to preach what he apparently practices. Isn't that counterintuitive?

I've not yet worshipped at either of Stupak's altars, but after an exchange akin to this, what vegan would deign to? With seemingly limitless choices in New York City, there are plenty of places that have yet to potentially turn off an entire populace with a thoughtless tweet. And that's the crux of it. I don't doubt Stupak is capable of creating an inventive veggie version of something he already serves at Empellón. So, why alienate a group comprising people who, like non-vegans, also boast bank accounts and appetites?

Stupak also played the hypocrite card, tweeting:

There are so many things wrong with this mentality, I hardly know what to tackle. (He dubbed Empellón "pro-death," which isn't inaccurate, but it is a macabre phrase, albeit technically true. Props, Stupak, for telling it like it is.) Bottom line: I addressed his judgmental hypothesis, grammatical errors and all, and regurgitated a basic economic principle: slowly but surely, demand dictates supply.

He responded in part:

Thereby implying he was just having a gas, or at least feigning to be. Casual after all that. And here I thought he was taking this so seriously, as indicated by the tweet responsible for the entire charade. For all intents and purposes he'd condemned vegan options on the whole, airing his disapproval and provoking this very debate, if you can call it that.

Stupak exited on a twee note, with "xoxo," somewhere along the line following me, then unfollowing me, then following me again and, last I checked, unfollowing me. Huh.

Of course, there was more to it than this—more voices, more opinions, more tweets—but I've gone on long enough.

The moral of my story? When everyone from Bill Clinton to Mark Bittman are riding the plant-based train, perhaps it's time to consider obtaining a ticket. That doesn't automatically translate to opening a raw restaurant like Jean-Georges (!!!) or overhauling your kitchen top-to-bottom; in with foliage, out with flesh. It simply means being conscientious, fostering an awareness of, and sensitivity to, the changing world around you.

It also means behaving in a way that favorably reflects your source of pride and joy (and income), rather than with disparaging remarks effectively throwing your business under the bus.

It may also mean acquainting yourself with the backspace button.

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