Fatback Vs Lard: The Differences You Need To Remember

Cooking with pig fat has been a part of food culture for centuries. Yet, differentiating between the many forms of pig fat can be tricky. It's almost like explaining the different types of butter: they may come from the same source, yet their uses and textures set them worlds apart. So, if you've ever wondered about the difference between fatback and lard, a few key features — ones which also determine the way they are used in cooking — can help you pick them out of a lineup.

The first and most evident difference is their texture. Fatback is solid and firm, while lard has a rich, creamy consistency — almost like butter. To break it down, fatback is exactly what its name suggests: the layer of fat from a pig's back. Ever noticed those soft, cushiony crumbs or flecks of pure white fat sprinkled across a nice cut of salami? That is fatback. Lard, on the other hand, is what happens when fatback gets a makeover. It is made by rendering fatback — slowly cooking it until it melts — and then straining out the remaining meat.

Fatback is primarily used to add moisture and flavor to a dish and can be cooked whole, though it's often slipped into pâtés, meatloaf, and hamburgers in sliced or ground form. It also forms an integral part of cold cuts like salami and sausages. You will rarely spot a well-designed charcuterie board without featuring meat with some fatback in it. Think of it as all-fat bacon. The deep-fried version — a New Year's dish believed to bring good luck and celebrated in the Southern U.S. — is sumptuously delicious.

During the Great Depression, fatback's popularity soared as it became the only affordable cut of meat and, in the 1950s, Louis Jordan and His Tympany Five immortalized it in their rhythm and blues song, "Fat Back and Corn Liquor". Its popularity rose just as the demand for lard began to decline, as mass-produced vegetable shortening, like Crisco, entered the market. 

A key difference between fatback and lard is how they are used. While lard's butter-like consistency makes it a dairy-free alternative for baking, and lard remains a beloved addition for  scones and biscuits, fatback rarely crosses over into the baking world. Similarly, lard isn't ideal for sausage-making as it is rendered fat and doesn't contribute much to texture or function well as a binder.

Lard was once as popular as butter, especially in 19th-century America. You are unlikely to spot this soft, white rendered fat in modern kitchens, primarily because many considered other options healthier. However, this is starting to change as people change their thoughts on nutrition. Plus, lard brings some unmatched qualities to the table, one of them being its unique crystal structure which increases flakiness in baked goods like pie crusts. Its mild, pork-like flavor also helps create a more nuanced, savory recipe. Perhaps it is because of these qualities that this once-essential kitchen staple seems to be making a comeback in the culinary world.

Lard's high smoke point also makes it a popular choice for frying, grilling, or searing. In some cultures, lard is also slathered on bread and eaten the way butter is, like the Polish dish smalec, which is made with lard, bacon, onion, and spices. So next time you feel confused between lard and fatback, just use a butter knife to see if it sinks in like it would in a creamy and rich slab of butter.