Andrew Zimmern's Favorite Midnight Snack Is Unexpected But Intriguing
Celebrity chef, host, and James Beard Award-winning food writer Andrew Zimmern is well-known for his adventurous palate, thanks to his series "Bizarre Foods." But what does he whip up for himself when he's in the comfort of his own home? If you guessed buttered and grilled toast, topped with anchovies, you'd be extremely perceptive and also correct. The answer may be unexpected for anyone who is adamantly opposed to anchovies on pizza or otherwise.
But although Zimmern is still surprised by his success, the culinary success of this combination of ingredients — thanks to the way they work to complement, contrast, and elevate one another — is no shock at all. In fact, once you've tasted this treat, you might just become an anchovy convert and you'd be in good company. The salty, creamy, crisp, and chewy snack is actually quite a common sight in one particular country, where its epicurean brilliance, balance, and ingenuity come through with every bite.
Anchovy toast history and construction
In Italy, anchovies are a major part of the cuisine thanks to their abundance in many waters that surround the peninsula from Liguria to Sardinia, Sicily, Campania, and beyond. They are emblematic of the so-called cucina povera, a style of cooking that utilizes inexpensive ingredients historically more accessible to peasant classes. This type of seafood also packs a ton of benefits into that little tin, from protein to omega-3 fatty acids, which makes them ideal as an affordable source of nutrients.
But this philosophy isn't just about function, it's a study of getting the most flavor from each element. Anchovies are tiny tasty secret weapons that help make Andrew Zimmern's toast a perfect culinary creation. They're briny, packed with umami flavors that give depth and complexity to everything from homemade Caesar dressing to an irresistible bagna cauda.
In this preparation, grilled bread offers a platform of chewy, crusty texture, along with a touch of bitter char. A creamy, generous slather of butter brings a grassy, sweet counterpoint to the super salty fish, and because fat is a flavor carrier it amplifies the savory, craveable goodness of anchovies. And though this toast truly requires nothing more than these three simple elements, many Italian cooks and restaurants add a sprinkle of lemon zest or thin slices of candied peel for a little acidic, aromatic, and colorful pop.
Making your own anchovy toast
Whipping up Andrew Zimmern's toast is tough to categorize as cooking since it's all about assembly and ingredient selection. While you can use just about any bread style, a fairly neutral slice of pane Toscana (a saltless Italian classic) will really let a particular butter or special type of anchovy take center stage. On the other hand, these fish are assertive and can easily stand up to a robust, flavorful bread too, like a yeasty sourdough or even a hearty rye.
The amounts of each ingredient are entirely up to you as well. A thick slather of wall-to-wall butter can be super satisfying, but you can go for a more demure swipe if you'd prefer a little restraint. You can also get creative here — if you've ever wondered what compound butter is and what to use it for, this is a good chance to find out. Vanilla butter adds subtle floral notes and a touch of balancing sweetness, while orange butter brings brightness and acidity, and Calabrian chili butter packs a punch.
As far as how many anchovies you use, the sea's the limit. Most Italian restaurants use a few filets per standard slice, but if you're a tiny fish fanatic, go crazy. Whether you follow Zimmern's lead and enjoy these treats at midnight, serve as an appetizer at your next aperitivo hour, or set up a slice for a quick and easy lunch, you'll always have a simple, flavor-packed snack on your hands.