How Fruit Sandwiches Became So Popular In Japan
Some might say the sandwich is a perfect food. It's handheld, scalable, and thanks to the combination of delicious fillings and a double dose of carbs in a single bite, it's one of the most satisfying creations that humans could possibly have invented. That said, in the U.S., the sandwich is almost always a savory creation (unless we're talking about the ice cream variety) — whether packed with cold cuts and slices of cheese, dripping with classic beef au jus as a French dip, or even at breakfast with an egg and sausage patty. But some parts of the world see the sweeter possibilities in a sandwich.
Japan has been serving up fruit slices between sliced bread for at least a century. Fruit sandwiches, also known as fruit sandos, are stuffed with fresh fruit and lightly sweetened whipped cream, silky custard, or a creamy mixture featuring mascarpone cheese, all on sweet and smooshy milk bread. But their increase in popularity can be attributed in part to aesthetics. Thanks to the internet, these beautiful compositions have been framed in digital shots and widely shared, fueling some major international sandwich love.
A method for selling fruit to the masses
Like so many culinary creations, fruit sandos are representative of both historical and cultural factors intersecting at a particular time. In this case, the first quarter of the 20th century. Prior to the period known as the Taishō era in the early 1900s, fruit was one of those epicurean indicators of wealth — an expensive treat enjoyed mostly by moneyed folks. As fruit prices decreased and the masses could afford to purchase more for themselves, fruit vendors became a common sight in Tokyo. When those vendors had excess inventory, they opened "fruit cafes" as an added revenue stream and moved surplus produce. (There were even a few examples of fruit cafes that may have predated the Taishō era, appearing as early as the 1830s in Tokyo and Kyoto).
In those cafes, the fruit sando was born. Because vendors were looking to move multiple kinds of fruit, visitors would find sandos that featured a combination of sliced-up, sweet gems, all held together with whipped cream spread between two slices of the country's iconic soft white bread.
The sando goes global
The sandos remained in rotation throughout the first half of the 20th century, but in 1964, when Tokyo hosted the Olympic games, they became a star on a global stage. Spectators worldwide had a chance to try this tasty and eye-catching specialty. Even in those days, the aesthetic of the fruit sando was part of its appeal, and their creation became a Japanese art form, with attention to every detail, down to its shape. In fact, the diagonal cut was so popular it was even patented for a time and is described by a very particular phrase meaning "desirable cross-section" (also applied to sushi rolls).
Fast forward a few decades, and the appeal of the fruit sando continues to find a global audience in a modern way — on the small screens of food fans. The super colorful, meticulously prepared, keenly creative sammies feature fruits of all kinds and have inspired travelers to seek them on journeys to Japan — or even recreate them right at home.
If you're inspired to whip up a fruit sando for yourself with your favorite fruit and vanilla whipped cream, it couldn't be easier. You can even try your hand at making milk bread. If you still skew toward the savory side, try elevating your sandwich by adding fresh fruit and embracing the sweet-umami combo. On the other hand, these treats may also become a popular addition to your menu.