14 Oaxacan Street Foods You Absolutely Need To Try
The southern Mexican city of Oaxaca is no stranger to great spots to dine out. Here, you will find some of the best mezcal and food in all of Mexico. From fine-dining restaurants to cozy cafes and chic bars, you'll be utterly spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out in Oaxaca. If you want more casual fare, you'll street food vendors serving up authentic Oaxacan antojitos on seemingly every corner in the city. It's at these stalls that your real taste of the city begins.
On your next trip to Oaxaca, take a day — or two, or three — to discover the city's exciting street food scene. Hunt down tasty Oaxacan memelas and tlayudas, dive into a butter and lime-spiked tub of esquites, satisfy your sweet tooth with some platanos fritos, or even try some chapulines (that's grasshoppers) if you're feeling adventurous.
Not sure what to try first? We've done the hard work and rounded up some of the best Oaxacan street foods that you absolutely need to try on your next visit.
1. Memelas
Memelas are a traditional Oaxacan specialty that are popular at all times of day but are especially well-suited to breakfast and brunch. These large, flat dishes look somewhat like an open-face taco, but they're made from thicker corn dough and are deliciously crispy on the outside yet soft on the inside. You can eat them flat, or curl them up like a taco for easier on-the-go munching. You may also see this meal called memelitas at some stalls.
Memelas come with a variety of guisados (toppings). Order yours topped with Oaxacan cheese (ask for sencillo) and refried beans, or try some huevos con chorizo (egg with sausage), chicharrón (fried pork skin), queso fresco, salsa, guacamole, and more.
For some of Oaxaca's best memelas, head for the Mercado Central de Abastos and make for Memelas Doña Vale, featured in Netflix's "Street Food: Latin America." The memelas here come with homemade salsa that's typically made with smoked jalapeños similar to chipotle peppers.
2. Chilaquiles verdes
Though this dish is not native to Oaxaca, chilaquiles verdes is a traditional Mexican breakfast or brunch dish that's popular in the city. It's typically made with corn tortillas that are cut into pieces and fried. The result is often served with salsa verde, onions, and eggs.
The Oaxacan version comes in a clay pot with crema, salsa verde, and onions, and topped with a fried egg and crumbled cotija cheese. This simple yet delicious dish is a great, hearty way to start a busy day exploring everything else that Oaxaca has to offer.
In Oaxaca, you'll likely also get a side of rich, smoky refried beans with your chilaquiles. If they're not already offered, we recommend adding them to your order anyway. You'll find vendors selling chilaquiles verdes at most of the city's markets, and Mercado La Merced is a great place to start. Here you'll also find freshly-prepared juices and a range of antojitos to choose from.
3. Empanadas de amarillo
Empanadas de amarillo are an authentic Oaxacan specialty. Much larger than other forms of baked or fried empanadas, these are native to the city and are at their most delicious when eaten hot off the nearest street food grill.
Cooks fill large corn tortillas with mole amarillo (yellow mole sauce), a regional specialty that is made with a variety of chilies and spices that include cinnamon and oregano, as well as tomatoes and tomatillos. Hoja santa, a local Oaxacan herb, is also a frequent contender, along with shredded chicken. When it's full, the tortilla is folded in half and then toasted so that the outside of the tortilla becomes deliciously crispy, while the tender, juicy chicken inside cooks in the rich, deep mustard-colored mole sauce.
Empanadas de amarillo can be found at street food vendors across the city. For some of the best empanadas de amarillo in Oaxaca, head for Empanadas del Carmen, a street food stall featured in Netflix's "Street Food: Latin America."
4. Chile relleno
Chile relleno originated in Puebla, a city located to the northwest of Oaxaca, and has become a popular dish at street food stands across the city.
Like many Mexican dishes, its origins are the stuff of myths and legends. One such tale maintains that nuns invented the dish for General Augustin de Iturbide, the soon-to-be the Emperor of Mexico, when he decided to stop in Puebla on his return to Mexico City in August 1821. The nuns are said to have prepared chiles en nogada — green poblano chilies in a creamy walnut sauce, stuffed with spices, nuts, ground meat, and fruit.
Chile relleno may have its roots in this 19th-century dish, but it's made quite differently today. Now, roasted poblano peppers are stuffed with minced pork or chicken and a generous helping of Oaxacan cheese. The pepper is then coated in egg and deep-fried, giving it a deliciously crunchy, crispy exterior and gooey interior. Chile relleno normally comes served with red or green salsa and, especially in Oaxaca, a side of refried beans. It may not be the healthiest antojito, but it is surely delicious!
5. Tamales
Though tamales didn't originate in Oaxaca — the truth is that you'll find them all over Mexico — they're still a popular street food that you can get on practically every corner in this city. Tamales are essentially a creation made from masa (corn dough), with various savory or sweet fillings. It's all wrapped in a corn husk or banana leaves and then steamed to perfection.
In Oaxaca, mole negro is one of the most popular tamale fillings. This dark, rich, silky smooth sauce is an Oaxacan specialty and is traditionally made with tomatoes, tomatillos, spices, nuts, raisins, and chilhuacle negro chiles, plus Mexican chocolate.
Mercado de la Merced is the best place to visit if you wish to try tamales from street food vendors. Try the Tamales Oaxaqueños, made with a rich, dark mole negro, shredded chicken, and masa. These tamales are sweeter and more moist than others and come wrapped in a banana leaf rather than more typical corn husks.
6. Tortas
Part sandwich, part toastie, with some serious Greek pita vibes, tortas are one of Oaxaca's most popular — and portable — street food snacks. Grab one for a light lunch or dinner on the go, or fuel up for some serious sightseeing.
To make a torta, a puffy, crusty white roll is first toasted on the grill. Its crisp exterior and fluffy interior ensure that it's airy and lighter than a pita or panini. Fillings usually include refried black beans, salsa, quesillo, pickled vegetables, chile relleno, ham, fried chicken, or beef. Fresh tomatoes, lettuce, and cilantro generally make an appearance, too.
For some of the best tortas in the city, make your way to Conzatti Park and order at Tortas La Hormiga. Expect pretty lengthy lines at this popular street food truck, especially at lunchtime, when locals and visitors descend for the deliciously fresh, piping hot, crispy tortas on sale here.
7. Platanos fritos
Platanos fritos, or fried sweet plantains, are one of the most popular street foods you'll find in Mexico. Usually sold out of carts, you'll never find yourself far from a platanos fritos vendor in Oaxaca.
For platanos fritos, plantains are peeled and then sliced into rounds or diagonally. They're then fried in hot oil until they have a crispy, caramelized exterior, and a soft, meltingly sweet interior. In Oaxaca, these treats are traditionally served with a drizzle of condensed milk and a sprinkle of cinnamon to enhance the smoky sweetness. Other popular toppings include a drizzle of caramel sauce or honey. Some vendors even serve their platanos fritos with whipped cream.
Though you'll find plenty of platanos fritos vendors across the city, if you're hunting for a cart and can't find one, head for a branch of the popular Tito's. The takeout window here is the best spot to grab a hot, sweet portion of fried plantains.
8. Paletas
Paletas more or less means "little stick," as they look like a popsicle. However, unlike most American popsicles made with dyes and sugar syrups, paletas are made with a wider range of fresh ingredients that include fruits, herbs, nuts, and spices.
While the origins of paletas are unclear, one story pins their origins to Michoacán in western Mexico. It's said that an ice cream maker from Michoacán traveled to the U.S. and took inspiration from the frozen desserts he found there, returning to Mexico to set up his own shop in the 1960s. Another story links the sweet treat to Agustín Andrade and Ignacio Alcazar, Michoacán natives who set up a paleteria in Mexico City in the 1930s before bringing their idea back to Michoacán.
Paletas come in an immense range of flavors, such as pineapple, passionfruit, chile mango, lime, and tamarind. Some versions include condensed milk for an even sweeter treat. Part of the fun of experiencing these frozen delights is discovering what flavors are on offer from different vendors throughout the day!
9. Esquites
Is there anything more comforting in the world than fresh corn with creamy, salty, sweet flavor? Esquites are one of Oaxaca's most commonly enjoyed street foods, so you simply must try this snack while you're visiting the city.
Mobile street food carts around Oaxaca serve up steaming cups of this delicious corn, which is often served with queso fresco, chile salt, mayonnaise, and a squeeze of lime. Creamy, sweet, salty, tangy, and utterly delicious, it's one of the best foodie experiences you'll have on your Oaxacan adventure. Mayo aside, we like to think it's healthier than some of the city's other street food options, too.
We think that esquites sold by street food stalls always taste better than the version you could make for yourself at home. Maybe it's the open air, the zing of the lime, or simply the freshness of the corn, but this is one snack you can't afford to miss on your next trip to Oaxaca.
10. Nieves
Nieves are a type of Mexican ice cream or sorbet that's made from fresh, locally-grown produce. You'll find both water-based and milk-based nieves. The water-based options are more akin to sorbet, while the milk-based ones are creamier and more like ice cream.
Nieves come in a huge variety of flavors, from more common options like strawberry, tamarind, and mango to rather unusual flavors such as elote (corn), mezcal, rose petals, or even tuna. Don't be alarmed by that last entry, though, as tuna nieves don't contain any fish! This flavor of nieves is made with local prickly pear cactus fruit that happens to be called tunas.
The best place to head for nieves in Oaxaca is Nieves Pepe, located in front of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Here you'll find a wide range of flavors. If you're feeling adventurous, get the chapulin (grasshopper) flavor which is sweet, spicy, savory, and sour all at once. Another popular flavor is Beso Oaxaqueño (Oaxacan Kiss), made with cherry, strawberry, and white chocolate.
11. Tlayudas
Tlayudas originated in Oaxaca and make a delicious dinner or evening snack that's great to share, if you can bear it. It's made from a large, thin tortilla that's fried or toasted until crunchy, then folded in half or served open-faced with a bevy of toppings. You'll often hear tlayudas referred to as Oaxacan pizza.
Common toppings include Oaxacan cheese and refried beans made with flavorful pork lard. Chorizo, strips of beef or chicken, or costilla (pork rib) are also popular, along with cecina (salted, dried meat) and tasajo (cured, salted grilled beef). Most tlayudas also contain some produce such as shredded cabbage, tomatoes, and avocados. You'll even find tlayudas topped with chapulines.
Tlayudas are commonly served in the evenings, and it's not uncommon to find street food vendors preparing them late into the night and early morning before the sun comes up. If you've overindulged in mezcal, this is the perfect street food to soak up that lingering alcohol and satisfy your appetite all at the same time.
12. Tacos
Of course, no roundup of street food in Mexico would be complete without one of the country's most popular eats: tacos. They're every bit as popular in Oaxaca as they are across the rest of Mexico, and there are some incredibly delicious options on the menu at the city's street food stalls.
Try tacos al pastor made with grilled, marinated pork cooked on a spit and shaved off in thin slices. Or, order tacos al vapor, also known as tacos de canasta or basket tacos. These tacos are filled with a hearty stew and then cooked in melted butter or oil. They take their name from the cloth-covered baskets from which they're sold.
Other Oaxacan specialties include tacos de lechon, made with roast suckling pig, and tacos de cabeza, made with meat from the same animal's head. Whichever type of tacos you order, they'll just about always come filled with fresh avocado, tomatoes, and cilantro, plus some tangy Oaxacan cheese. In Oaxaca, visit Taqueria Chava for some of the city's best tacos. It serves amazing consommé made from taco meat, too. Come early though, as this taco stand closes as soon as it sells out!
13. Tostadas
You can't go wrong with tostadas, toasted or deep-fried crunchy tortillas that are served with a variety of toppings. In Oaxaca, tostadas generally come with tomatoes, avocado, and plenty of Oaxacan cheese that melts into oozy strings. A smear of refried beans with pork lard adds a smoky, earthy flavor.
You'll also find tostadas topped with chapulines (grasshoppers) at many street food stalls. If you can get past the unusual appearance — and the fact you're eating, well, bugs — they're extremely tasty, with a salty, sour, savory, and sweet flavor that doesn't compare.
When in Oaxaca, Mercado de La Merced is the place to go for some of the city's most delicious tostadas, with plenty of vendors to choose from. Don't be afraid to try out different topping combos to find what you like best! Sour cream, pico de gallo, and your meat of choice are all excellent additions to your street food tostada.
14. Chapulines
The grasshoppers known across the city as chapulines have been eaten in Oaxaca and the surrounding regions for many years. In fact, they've been around since long before the arrival of European colonizers. Today, you'll often find them offered up as a savory, smoky topping for a tostada, or served inside tlayudas or tacos. They are also sometimes finely ground and added to nieves or ice cream, where they add a delicious savory flavor that has to be tasted to be believed.
If you're squeamish and are not quite sure you can handle the sight of bugs on your tostada, we'd recommend trying chapuline nieves. This allows you to enjoy the intense and unusual flavor of grasshoppers without having to obviously face the critters themselves, even if you don't have the strongest stomach. Take a deep breath and give it a try — we're willing to bet you'll be glad you did.