Dondurma Is The Stretchy Turkish Ice Cream Made From Orchids
Ever seen those TikToks where an ice cream vendor plays a bit of keep-away with an ice cream cone at the end of a long stick? If not, that might sound a bit strange, but if you have, you might've noticed the ice cream itself seems surprisingly resistant to gravity, not falling off its cone even when held upside down. What's going on there? Is this like a Dairy Queen Blizzard, so thick it sticks to containers when served? Sort of!
In many cases, what you're seeing is Maraş dondurma, one of the most striking examples of what ice cream can look (and taste) like around the globe. Unlike ice cream typically found in the Western world, Maraş dondurma is stretchy and sticky, making it perfect for fun feats of sweet showmanship. This sugary dish is often simply referred to as "dondurma" for short – translating to "freezing." However, the "Maraş" part of its full name indicates its origin point: Maraş dondurma is one of the coolest elements of Turkey's diverse cuisines.
How is dondurma traditionally made?
Maraş dondurma's moniker is taken from the city of Kahramanmaraş, Turkey, where it was reportedly invented. This metropolis has quite a few claims to fame, but in culinary circles, it is perhaps most well known for its local wheat, rice, spices, olive oil, legumes, and (Kahraman)Maraş dondurma.
The reason this ice cream has such a chewy consistency is all thanks to that region's orchids, whose powdered bulbs are known as "salep." That salep, combined with milk and sugar, makes the frozen treat firm and thick like taffy, and much harder to melt. Meanwhile, mastic sap — a pine resin — makes it stretchier, while also adding in flavor; dondurma-makers also knead the stuff with metal rods to make it even more malleable. Those ingredients give dondurma a sort of evergreen taste, one which is frequently modified with the addition of chocolatey and fruity mix-ins. Ice from Kahramanmaraş' nearby mountains traditionally chills this edible item.
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However, those beating and freezing processes can both be accomplished with machines in the modern day. Interestingly enough, though, Kahramanmaraş' orchids have not ever been commercially cultivated, meaning that this element of the recipe remains less than easily accessible. In fact, when supplies of it once ran low, the Turkish government banned exports of its orchids, ensuring that authentic dondurma remains in Turkey. Luckily, however, for those of us living outside that country, there are similar creations available.
Foreign nations are adopting dondurma
Even without orchids, it's possible to make a close approximation of dondurma. Producers outside Turkey regularly replace salep with guar gum or konjac flour to give their ice cream its distinctive consistency. As a result, dondurma has indeed spread far and wide.
For example, in the somewhat nearby nation of Pakistan, a dondurma shop debuted in its capital city of Islamabad as recently as 2015. Serving the tough, gummy dessert out of shiny silver bowls with paddle-like spoons, the vendors dressed up in gold-embroidered, red-velvet vests of Ottoman style. Plus, in keeping with that devotion to near-authenticity, the treat was made with Turkish herbs and seasonal fruits, with flavors such as chocolate, pistachio, and vanilla.
The Western world has caught onto this trend, too. In 2017, New York City got its own dondurma for the first time, according to Grub Street, courtesy of a retail brand of Mediterranean treats. Its creamy version used carrageenan gum, locust-bean gum, and veggie glycerin to achieve its texture. Flavors included orange blossom chocolate, spiced date, and tart cherry. As recently as 2022, per the Guardian, the Land Down Under also followed suit. Baklava, feta, and tahini were among the flavors at one Australian dondurma shop. Another store, at times, served halva, rockmelon (cantaloupe), and sun-dried fig variations.
Is Maraş dondurma still dondurma even when it isn't Turkish and full of orchids? Hard to say, but one thing's certain: Keep-away-playing ice cream vendors clearly have what folks want!