Long Weekend In... Singapore

While Singapore may not seem the most likely place to spend a long weekend, think again. Because it's a popular stopover for many trans-Pacific travelers, it's a great way to break up one of those cramped long-haul flights. In fact, its airport, Changi, with its pools, gardens, and array of dining, is one of the

A historically highly trafficked port, the island-nation has always had a unique vantage point within Southeast Asia, both culturally and geographically. Like Hong Kong, it retains remnants of its British colonial history in that the "national" language is English — in quotes because travelers will notice that nearly every public sign is in four languages: English, Malay, Mandarin, and Tamil.

In that vein, Singaporeans are very consciously inclusive of their multi-ethnic citizenry, and despite the austere image that many Americans may have of the country's legal system (the perennial pre-arrival joke being, "just don't spit..."), the people are friendly and casual, and while urban life is fast-paced, the vibe is more laidback than you'd expect. Think: Tokyo's modern face with Honolulu's smile. A wonderful contrast to the Blade Runner-esque cityscape is the newly renovated Fort Canning Hotel, atop a lush hillside park. Amongst the treetops, the boutique hotel feels like a total respite and private club, which until recently it was.

This can be said of people the world over, but Singaporeans truly love to eat, in a similar way that Italians and French take pleasure in their food, and omnivorously of the various ethnic cuisines. Taking a cue from that intersection of nationalities, a visit to Singapore should be approached as a journey through the Malay, Indian, and Chinese cultural intersections. Jumble up all of the great street food with some of the upscale homegrown dining that has lately emerged for a remarkable gastronomic experience.

Long Beach Seafood, and though it has several outlets, the seaside one at UDMC has sunset viewing opportunities and gives a rare glimpse of Singapore's less urban terrain.

Say jetlag has gotten its hooks into you, and you're hankering for some casual comfort food. The chicken rice at Boong Tong Kee is noteworthy... so take notes. The chicken is boiled and then quickly chilled for serving so that the skin has an unctuous, confit-like consistency and the meat ultra-moist and tender. If you can stand it, have your first taste of sambal, the ubiquitous spicy chili-lemongrass sauce, along with some stewed pork belly with pickled vegetables and deep fried bean curd. Where to go if it's late night? After the club (or marathon mahjong games), Singaporeans head to places like Ya Hua Bak Kut Teh for steaming bowls of pork ribs in a peppery broth to be mixed with rice, fried bread, watercress, and of course, sambal.

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Start the day like old-school Singaporeans do at Ya Kun for kaya toast and coffee. There are several locations of this popular breakfast spot, serving kaya, the dulce de leche of Singapore, a sweet coconut and vanilla spread as well as coffee with condensed milk and soft poached eggs to be eaten with a dash of soy sauce and white pepper. (pictured, left)

Botanic Gardens — spilling over with rare varieties in otherwordly colors and shapes — will remind that despite its urban feel, Singapore is a lush island, only 30% of which is developed. (pictured, left) Get out of the hot midday sun for lunch at the shady, covered Tiong Bahru Market. Newly renovated in an Art Deco neighborhood, the market's upstairs holds a variety of hawkers' stalls. (pictured, below)

Take note of what people are lining up for but plan to sample a bunch of dishes, like the chwee kueh, Singaporean comfort food in the form of soft rice cakes with preserved radish eaten with a toothpick; the amazing black "carrot" cake (which is really sweet turnip and not cake-y at all); crispy suckling pig; or one of the classic noodle dishes like mee siam with vermicelli noodles or char kway teow, rice noodles with shrimp, fish cake, egg, and sausage.

The Flyer is Singapore's answer to the London Eye, only bigger and flashier, especially if you sign up for the VIP cocktail experience, which gets you access to a plush private bar and you get to skip the lines. Time the ride so that the sun will be setting over the Indonesian paluas in the distance. Chef Willem Low's playful cuisine turns Singaporean local flavors on their heads. He's also turned Mount Emily into a destination with his restaurant, Wild Rocket, a clean, open space that feels modern and at the same time familiar, like many of the artful dishes served.

Day 2: Any food-lover's visit to Southeast Asia has to include a sampling of that infamously stinky and famously sought-after fruit, the durian. Head to the fruit sellers on Bugis Street, which is the bargain shopping stop for locals, to buy a package of durian that you can eat right there, since it's forbidden on public transportation. (pictured, above)

Katong Laksa stand at East Coast Rd. and Chapel Rd.). (pictured, above)

Along the Singapore River, Clarke Quay is a little inlet of nighttime activity and also an embarkation point for a lazy late afternoon cruise. The 30-minute ride gives a bottom-up view of Singapore's more historic elements; afterwards, cool down with drinks at one of the quay's many bars.

Candlenut, a restaurant from rising chef Malcolm Lee, whose mission is to elevate traditional Peranankan cuisine with superior ingredients and modern technique. Get local items like rendang made with trendy cut du jour, beef cheek (pictured, above), or kueh pie tee, ubiquitous throughout Singapore, only this time with pork belly. A sophisticated place to spend Saturday night is the Fullerton Bay Hotel's rooftop bar; you'll be paying the $20 per cocktail for the stunning view, but the atmosphere is worth it.

Day 3: When traveling to a new country, I love to spend my last day at the history museum because it puts the trip's experiences in context. The National Museum of Singapore doesn't disappoint — its intriguing design takes a colonial building and half-encases it in a Post-Modern shell. Plus, the state-of-the-art exhibits have all the bells and whistles to keep bedraggled tourists engaged; definitely check out the special display of street food and local cuisine.

Banana Leaf Apolo, where the brave (and in-the-know) order the tartly tamarind-spiked fish head curry. (pictured, above)

By this time, you'll have heard many mentions of Orchard Road, the Rodeo Drive/Madison Avenue of Singapore. There are imposing showrooms for every high-end brand, and in the case of Louis Vuitton, two or three separate ones. Also along Orchard Road is the Hilton

Iggy's, pulls all the stops out with its eight-course tasting menu. European-Asian dishes like char-grilled ayu delicately perched so that it seems to be diving into a sea of braised cabbage, sago pearls, and a moat of Pernod sauce (pictured, right) arrive so imaginatively plated, you'll want to admire that still life of smoked eel mousse, shiny caviar, and glinting edible foil for a moments before digging in.

This article was orginally published on August 4, 2011