Where To Find St. Louis' Best Pizza
Pizza is arguably America's most varied and beloved dish, one whose devotees are some of the most opinionated, and yet it remains one of the most accessible foods there is. Even the country's most expensive and esteemed pizza temple is within reach of the average person's budget. Every red-blooded American grew up with his or her preferred regional style of this national fascination, knowing it as the definitive best. Today, there's better pizza, more knowledge about it, and interest in it everywhere. That accessibility and loyalty makes for some tremendously spirited debate.
Considering the passion pizza inspires, responsibly declaring America's Best Pizza can be challenging. But The Daily Meal doesn't shy away from the challenge. For our third annual pizza ranking, we again sought the nation's best pies and slices, considering more places than ever in our quest for the best. We researched and added 275 more pizzas and recruited a group of 30 more experts to weigh in than for our 2013 list. Some 700 pizza spots were considered by 78 panelists, comprising The Daily Meal's in-house pizza experts and city editors, American chefs, restaurant critics, bloggers, writers, and pizza authorities. We compiled the data, and although there could only be one winner, there is plenty of seriously good pizza being made across America, including in St. Louis.
There are styles of pizza so particular to the area in which they originated that many outsiders will forever struggle to comprehend the reason for their existence. For New Yorkers that's Chicago deep-dish, for late-night host Jimmy Kimmel, apparently that's St. Louis-style. In an interview with St. Louis native and Mad Men star Jon Hamm on Jimmy Kimmel Live!, he told Hamm that Imo's was a "terrible, terrible pizza place." Hamm defended the pizza, noting that the middle slice is the best one, and saying you could "taste the Gateway Arch" and its 11 World Series titles in an Imo's slice (square cut, of course), going so far as to say he'd take Imo's over Kimmel's own. If you haven't tasted it for yourself, you'll need to before weighing in. While its thin and unleavened crackery crust is almost like one you'll find in a bar pie, it's generally known to be a bit sweeter than typical bar pies, and meant to act as a vehicle for the unique cheese topping that makes St. Louis style unlike any other slice you'll have ever tried.
Maligned (and often unknown) outside St. Louis and beloved by residents of the city, the key to St. Louis-style pizza is Provel, a white processed cheese said to be a combination of Cheddar, Swiss, and provolone invented in the city's Italian neighborhood shortly after World War II. Just as you'll hear differing opinions about who exactly invented Provel, the origin of the style is also debated. Imo's is widely credited, but Farotto's, which is said to have opened in 1956, eight years before Ed and Margie Imo opened Imo's, has its own claim. Whichever story you choose to believe, you can't deny one thing: Imo's, with its more than 90 locations, has popularized a unique, love-it-or-hate-it pie you have to try at least once. Menus vary because each store is independently owned, but the Deluxe should be pretty easy to find, and is a good place to start: sausage, mushrooms, onions, green peppers, bacon, and of course, Provel.
Kate Kolenda is the Restaurant and City Guide Editor at The Daily Meal. Follow her on Twitter @BeefWerky and @theconversant.