8 Chefs Professionally Playing With Their Food
Much like our reaction to Oprah's departure from her daytime talk show, we are not taking the loss of Ferran Adria's elBulli very well. Set to close (and begin morphing into a foundation) this July, elBulli has been considered the best restaurant in the world for years and is home to some of the most innovative techniques in cooking today. To better deal with this imminent loss, we found ourselves dreaming of other restaurants worth traveling for. We'd surely visit Heston Blumenthal in London, Anatoly Komm at Varvary in Moscow, and the vegetable patch at Margaux in Berlin, to name a few. Here are eight European establishments we're practically booking flights to already.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London
It's out with the new and in with the old at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. The man who made molecular gastronomy famous has taken inspiration for his new restaurant — which has an enviable position in London's Mandarin Oriental Hotel, overlooking Hyde Park — from 13th- to 19th-century British cookbooks.
The recipes, of course, have all been given a dash of the infamous Blumenthal flair (his Fat Duck outside London has, like elBulli, been named World's Best Restaurant, and still lingers in the top 10) to make them more palatable to 21st-century tastebuds. A starter of Roast Marrowbone (recipe circa 1723, served in a bone) — marrow chopped up with parsley, anchovy, breadcrumbs and mace (which is the seed covering of nutmeg and has a similar flavor) — is kept from being overly heavy with a side of pickled vegetables and salad leaves. (Photo above, chef Blumenthal's take on bacon and eggs at the Fat Duck, courtesy of Flickr/Sifu Renka)
The Braised Celery main course (circa 1730) is rich, filling, and savory, thanks to the addition of
(Photo above, of "Meat Fruit," courtesy of Flickr/Manne)
What Blumenthal and executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts have created here is a historic royal feast you're unlikely to ever forget, experimenting
(Photo above, of lamb broth with hen's egg and vegetables, courtesy of Flickr/Manne) — Jill Starley Grainger
66 Knightsbridge, London; +44 (0)20 7201 3833
Yet again securing the number one spot this year in the World's Best Restaurant List, chef Rene Redzepi's Copenhagen restaurant has never been one for playing it safe. Eschewing the critic-pandering technique of Frenchy froths, foams, and foie gras, Noma has brought Scandinavian cuisine to international acclaim. With its position on the edge of Denmark, separated from Sweden by a bridge,
Daily foraging for mushrooms and other wild foods, along with the day's catch from The Sound and hearty animals from the region, provides inspiration for the seven-course tasting menu served to all diners. You might start with scallops and beech nut served with watercress and grains, followed by pickled vegetables and bone marrow, rounded out with Jerusalem artichoke and marjoram with apple and malt. To secure a table, you'll need to book three months ahead, but don't purchase a plane ticket until you have a definite date. This place is so hot, even A-listers struggle to get in. And at seven courses for DKK1,095 (USD $205.00), you'll need to either be on business expenses or save up for a meal here — but it's sure to be one you'll talk about for years to come. (Photo courtesy of Ditte Isager) — Jill Starley Grainger
Strandgade 93, Copenhagen; +45 3296 3297
A clean, open space with wooden and caramel-hued accents throughout, Margaux is considered one of Berlin's most innovative restaurants. Seasonal vegetables and herbs are king in chef Michael Hoffmann's kitchen, with meat playing a secondary role. In the last year alone, Hoffmann has cultivated over 200 varieties in his garden for use at this much-praised establishment.
Dishes like beets with cabbage stalks, tiger nuts, and grapes showcase not only the ingredients' distinct flavors, but the chef's creativity. One dish combines sweet potatoes and other vegetables with mussels to achieve a unique juxtaposition between flavors and textures, which seems to be chef Hoffmann's ultimate goal. The Margaux team places plenty of emphasis, too, on wine pairings. Sommelier Gesumino Pireddu helps diners navigate the impressive international wine list. (Photo courtesy of Flickr/YummyMuffins)
Unter den Linden 78, Berlin; +49 (0) 30 22 65 26 11
If it's true that we eat first with our eyes, then dining at Etrusco is a fully sensorial experience. Beautifully designed plates are only the beginning as chef Ettore Botrini creates combinations and
(Photo courtesy of Etrusco)
Kato Korakiana, Corfu; +30 26610 93342
Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy
Set in the gastronomic capital of Modena, in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, Osteria Francescana aims to "test your tongue." The two-Michelin-starred restaurant, helmed by chef Massimo Bottura (pictured), looks as much like a modern art gallery than it does a restaurant. The distinctive display of sculptures and paintings prepares diners for "molecular" meals that put modern spins on classic favorites, with traditional Italian cuisine served in shot
Chef Bottura has been receiving awards on a regular basis since 2002 and the restaurant has been named among the world's 50 best since 2009. By selling homemade products like oils, dressings, and wine, Bottura connects with diners well after they've left the dining room. You can even make his famous tortelli burro e saliva — he includes the recipe on his website. (Photo courtesy of Flickr/indrasensi)
Via Stella, 22, Modena; +39 059 210118
Traveling to Spain for food will continue to be more than worthwhile even after elBulli is gone, especially with the offerings on Quique Dacosta's whimsical, colorful menu. Dacosta's playfulness combines with careful consideration of ingredients and the seasons. Start with cold tea, chicory, and hibiscus, for example, before tucking into a plate of red king prawns from Denia, prepared four ways. Experiment with his "living forest" or sample some of his seaweed stew, either of which will allow you to enjoy flavors you didn't even know existed.
Originally called elPoblet, the restaurant has been awarded two Michelin stars for cooking that is widely considered, in Spain and beyond, to represent the next generation of the Spanish avant-garde, following in Ferran Adrià's footsteps. (Photo above, of "Abstraction of the Sea," courtesy of Flickr/lesleyk)
Calle de las Marinas, 3, Dénia; +34 965 78 41 79
Chef Pierre Gagnaire's eponymous restaurant has maintained a position on the world's 50 best restaurant list since 2003. Though he is one of the most technically advanced chefs in the world today, Gagnaire seems to use his skills not just to add whimsey or eccentricity but
Travelers hoping to get a taste of Gagnaire's cuisine without traveling to Paris can experience his other restaurants in London, Dubai, St. Tropez, and Las Vegas, among other cities. (Photo courtesy of Flickr/lesleyk)
44 Rue du Bac, Paris; +33 1 45 44 73 73
Another chef praised for applying the most modern imaginable techniques to indigenous and traditional ingredients is Varvary's Anatoly Komm. Varvary, whose name translates roughly to "barbarian" in Russian, is a small establishment whose mission is to turn classic Russian dishes into contemporary and enticing new creations. Think of borscht and Slavic breads in the form of gels, crisps, and freeze-dried morsels. Chef Komm is considered to be Russia's answer to Ferran Adrià,
Decorated with swaths of opaque fabric, crystal, red velvet chairs, and a gothic undertone, Varvary is exactly what a traveler might want from an experimental meal in Russia — especially one that includes beets turned into paper-thin sheets and turkey heart kebabs are served with pomegranate and walnut paste. (Photo courtesy of Varvary)
8A Strastnoi Bulvar, Moscow; +7 495 229 2800